Testing Your Sump Pump

Before you test

1. Unplug the pump. Make sure the outlet pipe isn't frozen or blocked and drains away from the house.
2. Remove the lid and look for debris in the pit and around the intake.
3. If tile drain inlets sit near the bottom of the pit, temporarily plug them so water doesn't bypass the pump.

Step 1: Run the water-fill test

1. Plug the pump back in.
2. Slowly pour water into the pit, at about the speed water normally flows in.
3. Watch and listen. The pump should turn on and off at least twice, and the float should move freely.
4. If it doesn't cycle, or it sounds wrong, have it repaired before storm season.

Step 2: Check the rest of the system

• Check valve: There should be one on the outlet pipe. Without it, water flows back and forth and shortens pump life.
• Discharge: Aim for at least 20 feet from the house, pointed away from it, and not into window wells or onto the septic drain field.
• Power: The pump should be on its own circuit. A GFI on this circuit can trip during storms, so ask an electrician about the right protection.
• Backup pump or battery: Confirm the battery is charged and its float turns the backup on when you raise it.

How often to replace parts

Some manufacturers suggest replacing the switch and float about every two years and the pump about every five years. Pump age varies, so if yours is old but still tests well, consider keeping a backup.

When to call a professional

Call a licensed plumber if the pump runs constantly, doesn't turn on, makes grinding or humming noises, or doesn't move water out of the discharge line.

Sources

This guide is based on the following sources. Requirements change, so check the originals and your local building department before you start.

• NDSU Extension publication AE1573: Sump Pumps (North Dakota State University)

This guide is general maintenance information, not a substitute for a licensed contractor's inspection. Follow the manufacturer's instructions and your local code requirements.